How to sew fabulous seat cushions (even if you’re a complete beginner) – part 2

Hopefully you’ve now read part 1 of how to make box seat cushions (if not, click here!) and you have everything you need to start sewing. Making cushions for our campervan was the first sewing project I’d ever attempted (may be the last) so it taught me a lot about using a sewing machine and different techniques for everything, from measuring to unpicking.

It was a steep learning curve, but hopefully what I did learn will be useful to other beginners who want to tackle something similar.

This might not always be the most conventional method of sewing, but having read a lot of beginner sewing books and watched a range of tutorials, this is what worked best for me. I know the modern thing is to upload a YouTube video but sadly, the chances of me sewing in a straight line while smiling beatifically into a camera and talking in a calm, rational voice are quite slim. But, if you are more of a visual person, there are heaps of videos out there teaching you how to sew. I watched a lot of these, but found the information would desert me somewhere on the walk between my computer screen and sewing machine.

Some tips before you start:

  • I tried every shortcut that was going. I tried to get away without pinning, pressing and bothering with a practice run. It didn’t work and I got into more of a flap. Slow and steady was actually the quickest way to the best result.
  • Pinning – try pinning with the point of the pin facing outwards to the edge of the fabric. You’ll often find you can sew over the pins like this, rather than having to remove each one as you reach it.
  • Pressing – one of my best purchases was a tabletop ironing board. It was $10 from Ikea and could stay out on the table, which was much easier than putting the big ironing board up every time I wanted to press a seam.

  • Have a practice run. I know. Making an entire cushion just as a practice sounds incredibly tedious, but it’s really worth it and if it turns out perfectly, you have your first complete cushion already. Some tips for your practice run:
  • Ideally, use the exact fabric you intend to use so you know how the weight will respond, and how you need to match the pattern up between different panels.
  • Use a longer stitch (it’s quicker to sew and easier to unpick).
  • If you’re already happy sewing in a straight line, you can just practise the corners on a few scraps of fabric. It’s just a case of matching three corners up and sewing to the same point on each one.

Step 1. Getting prepared

Carefully cut out your 6 panels, similar to the diagram here (but with your own measurements). Remember the 2cm seam allowance on each end. The back panel will contain the zip and be cut in two lengthways so allow an extra 2cm on this measurement, 1cm for each half. (If you want to give yourself a bit more leeway, you can always use 2cm for each half.)

Use a fabric pencil to mark the back of each panel whether it’s front/back etc. You’ll soon find they look very similar.

Lay out your panels in your cushion configuration so you know which bit goes where.

These photos are of my smallest backrest cushion.

Step 2. Fixing the front and side panels to the top panel

Starting with the front panel, position it – right sides together – over the top panel, with the bottom seams and corners lined up exactly.

Pin the two pieces together along the bottom seam. Make a small mark 2cm from each end and, using your 2cm seam allowance, sew between these two marks. Backstitch a few stitches at each end to strengthen.

Open out the fabric and press out the seam on each side.

Continue with the two side panels. Position them (right sides together) over the top panel, pin together and then machine stitch to 2cm from each end.

After each panel, open out the fabric and press out the seam on each side.

Cushion corners – an alternative method.

The cushion corners were my nemesis.

The standard method of making a box seat cushion is to use one long strip which curves around the front and sides. Every manual and video advised this is the best way to make cushion corners. I tried. And I failed. I battled with these corners for weeks and only produced very inconsistent results. So I devised my own method, which was far easier, looked much neater and briefly saved my sanity.


Step 3. Corner 1 – front / left / top corner

Look at where your front, left and top panels meet – your three corners should all neatly join up.

Pin along the edge of the front and left panels. Again, make a small mark 2cm from each end (where the corners will be) and, taking care to manoeuvre the top panel out of the way (you should only ever be pinning two pieces of fabric together, make sure the third doesn’t get caught up), sew to the 2cm mark. Backstitch a few stitches.

Now you can turn your fabric the right way round and see how neat and pointy your corner is!

The reason most methods use a single strip for the front and sides is to avoid having potentially weaker seams on the edges. I haven’t had any problems so far but you can strengthen your seams as much as possible by using thicker upholstery thread and backstitching over each end a couple of times.

Step 4. Remaining panels and corners 

Once you have the top, front and left panels attached, turn the fabric inside out again and press out all the seams. Continue with the top / front / right corner using the same technique as above.

Then you just have to add your bottom panel and sew its corresponding corners to complete your 5-sided cushion cover. All you have to remember is to line up your edges and leave a 2cm gap at each end.

Note: If you’re flagging, stop at this point for a reviving cup of tea and a jaffa cake, and congratulate yourself on having produced fabulous cushion corners.

Now it’s time to look at the zip.

Step 5. The zip

In a nutshell, you’re going to cut your back panel in two lengthways, then sew it back up (bear with me – this forms the seam), tack the zip on underneath your seam, then machine stitch from the right side through your seam allowance and zip. You can then cut open the seam and open/close your zip.

In the following photos I’ve demonstrated the steps on a prototype using cream fabric with red thread, which shows up more easily. Of course it also shows up mistakes and wonky lines more easily – these will be nicely disguised if you’re using matching fabric, thread and zip, so yours will look much better than this!

Here’s how to do a zip in 20 simple steps.

  1. Take your back panel and cut it in half lengthways. R= right side, W=wrong side. (Try to cut a bit straighter than in this prototype!)
  2. Put the panels together (right sides together). Place the zip in the centre, aligned with the bottom seam and make a small mark at each end of the zipper teeth.
  3. Place the zip to the side.  Pin the seam together.
  4. Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew the two pieces together. Machine stitch long stitches between the two marks (to make it easier to unpick at the end to enable the zip to open) and little stitches for the rest.
  5. Press open the seam and place the panel wrong side up (the seam will now be right side up).
  6. Attach the zipper foot to your sewing machine.
  7. Open the zip and place it wrong side up over the seam allowance.
  8. Pin the left side of the zip to the seam allowance, with the zipper teeth running along the centre. Placing the pins’ point facing against the way you’re sewing makes them easier to remove as you sew down. 
  9. Place the fabric on the sewing machine and move the bottom panel out of the way so you’re only sewing the zip to the seam and not the panel underneath. (Nb. The reason for this is on a basic sewing machine, you may find the stitches don’t look as neat underneath, and I didn’t want them showing through on the right side of the fabric. If you have a better sewing machine and are happy with how the stitches look underneath, you can sew all the way through to the right side, and can skip the next section where you sew through from the right side.)

11. With the zip pull at the bottom, sew down the left side. Go slowly around the zip pull, you might have to manoeuvre the fabric a bit around it.  

12. Close the zip.

13. Pin the right side of the zip to the seam allowance, moving the panel out of the way, as before. Turn the fabric round so the zip pull is at the bottom.

14. Sew down the right side.

15. Turn your fabric over. The zip is now attached in position underneath the seam allowance but is not visible from the top. Press flat.

16. Position the fabric on the machine, right side up with the zip pull at the bottom. With the zipper foot to guide you, sew down the left side of the centre seam. Start around 5mm above the zip stop, and stop when you’re struggling to sew in a straight line around the zip pull underneath. (It doesn’t matter if you don’t reach the end, we’ll continue sewing this line shortly.)

17. Return to the top of the line you have just sewn. Sew across the end of the zip (around 5mm from the zip stop).

18. With the needle still down, pivot the fabric and sew down the right hand side. Again, stop when the line is threatening to curve around the zip pull.

19. Remove the tacked stitches over the centre seam and check your zip opens and closes easily.

20. You can now move the zip pull to the top, and continue sewing around the bottom of the zip without being impinged.

That’s it!

Now all you have to do is turn your 5-sided cushion cover inside out again and attach the zip panel following the previous instructions. Et voila! You’ll have made a beautiful cushion with neat pointy corners!

As per the disclaimer at the start, I started this project as a complete beginner and had to learn from scratch. As such, I’m sure there are simpler (and shorter!) instructions out there in webland. But this is what worked for me, so hopefully someone else can benefit as well.  As always – all comments are welcome!


116 thoughts on “How to sew fabulous seat cushions (even if you’re a complete beginner) – part 2

  1. Pingback: How to sew fabulous seat cushions (even if you’re a complete beginner) – part 1 « The Campervan Converts

  2. Hi…

    I’m just about to start this one myself…. So I hope to have as much luck as you have had 🙂 they look great!

    Just one question.. Did you make the cushions the exact size of the foam? Or did you allow a little extra for the wadding? Just trying to size up my material at the mo and don’t want to end up short!


    • Hi Lara,
      Thanks for stopping by! If you’re just doing one layer of wadding without too much overlap (which I’d recommend) I wouldn’t add any extra allowance for it, and would use the exact measurements of the foam. You want the cushion cover to be as tight as possible so it doesn’t sag. It’s always a bit of a struggle wrestling the foam into the cover, but once it’s in and you’re actually using the cushion, you’ll find the fabric does give a little.

      The only time I did allow a couple of extra millimetres was one of my early practice cushions, where I was using a really thick polyester wadding and doubled it over at the edges to make them more rounded. It turned out too bulky though and I found that one thin layer with no overlap worked much better.

      Good luck! You’ll have to report back how they turned out!

      • This was such a helpful tutorial. I only wish I’d read this comment before I allowed for an extra inch for the fiberfill. I had to take one apart a tighten and it’s still not tight enough but my corners look great. 🙂

  3. Thank you, I have found your ‘How to sew fab seat cushions’ wonderfully helpful! I am a complete beginner.

    Have very recently received a Hiace (a KZH138V) from Japan, and doing some basic camperizing with it, for cruising around northwest Canada and Alaska. It will never be as fabulous as your lovely van, as often it will carry a motorcycle, or 2, but it will be comfy and warm.


    • Hi Kevin,

      Thanks very much – so glad you found it helpful. Travelling around Canada and Alaska would be amazing – we’d love to do that one day. Hope you have a great time!


    • Thanks Nat – we bought it from Spotlight. I’m not sure what it was called unfortunately and it was a couple of years ago now but they definitely stocked it for a while, and they have a great selection of other colours / stripes if it’s no longer there. Hope you find it!

  4. hello- this didn’t work for me, nothing lines up properly.. I measured everything out carefully but the side/top panels do not line up to make neat corners and it is very confusing, all the corners and seams are in the way.. it looks like your top front side panel is longer to me.. is that added in in your measurements somewhere?

    • Oh no – sorry you’re struggling. I’m not sure what to suggest, I used the exact measurements in the diagram and it worked okay. The top panel is no longer than the other panels, maybe it looks like that because the panels are laid on top of each other? And it can look confusing before everything’s sewed up – particularly where all the corners come together. I’ll have another play with the sewing machine this weekend and see if I can come up with any more helpful suggestions. Also if anyone else is reading this post and having the same problems, can you let me know please? Many thanks!

  5. Hi Rach,

    Thanks for your reply, I got everything to line up but I’m not sure how to consistently sew the corners because there are 3 sides so to speak where everything meets up. I If I sew it the way you show, some cloth for the other side usually gets caught and there is a lump… not sure what I’m doing wrong here, I’m working so hard on this and it’s frustrating. I tried the other method to o with one larger front side panel and a back panel, with the zipper going around the back, that was impossible to control the corners. I only did this for an inner, waterproof lining I’m doing. I can email you a pic if you give me an email to explain what I’m winding up with/doing better. Thanks! Ellie

    • Hi Ellie,

      Gosh I really feel your frustration. Sewing the corners together can be tricky because like you say, you only want to sew two pieces, and at the start I kept sewing through all three. You need to keep the third panel firmly out of the way, slowly sew two panels up to the 2cm mark (keep making sure you’re still just sewing two pieces), then turn the piece over and do the same on the next two panels, and again on the last two, so the three corners meet. I only kept persisting because once I saw it could work, I knew the corners would look much better than using any other method. I practised the technique a few times at first on test fabric – by pinning then loose hand stitching so I could see how it was supposed to work. I found this much easier to control and when I’d figured it out, I went back to the sewing machine. Good luck – I’m sure you can crack it!

  6. Thanks Rach,

    I am just plugging away at it. It will not be perfect. I don’t understand how everyone does this so perfectly the other way at all. It seems impossible to get everything to line up really well either way, and it’s very awkward to do with heavy weight upholstery fabric. Even with the thinner waterproof baby mattress material I’m making the foam covers with is difficult to do it really well with. I may try my mom’s method again for the next couch, she had one piece of fabric wrap around the front with two side panels and a zip at the back.


  7. Another problem I have is the zippers- no matter how careful I am, lining up the zipper foot and keeping everything even, the margin is always uneven of the sewing next to the zipper, I only sew it to the seam so fortunately it doesn’t really show except for the part the covers over the zipper on the right side is slightly different on each side.

  8. I meant I only sew it to the part beside the seam, I can’t remember the name of it now. I’m doing a half inch measurement for that instead of 1cm because that is too small to sew the zip to it properly.

  9. What an excellent guide. I have never made anything before but with your help I have recovered the cushions on my garden swing. I did not think I could do zips so made envelope at the back but other than that followed your guide. It has gone so well that I am looking for my next project.
    Thank you so much

  10. Hello! I just finished a prototype on a firm bench cushion, much like yours. I used the same zip method as you, too. The part I did differently was my order of attachment. My cushhoin is almost half a meter wide and deep, but 5cm tall. I attached the front and back panels (did the zip first) to the top, then the side panels to the top. Then I sewed the front,back and side panels to the bottom. I made sure the seams began and ended right at their seam allowance points (1cm for me). What remained were short vertical seams at the corners. The previous sewing lines were my start/end guides and, being so short, they were easy to keep neat and accurate. But after all that, I have a question:
    I’m finding it fiddly and awkward to organised the bulk at the corner points. The filling cushion is firm, not soft and squishy, so I need to figure out the fabric arrangement so I don’t have lumpy corners. Your 2cm seems like a lot of seam allowance to manage at a three-point corner. Do you do anything special at the points?
    Cheers in advance 🙂

    • Hi Alison – sorry for not replying sooner, happy new year! I agree that 2cm was too much allowance really, I wouldn’t leave that much next time. As a beginner I was trying to give myself plenty of leeway and luckily they did come together nice and pointily (if that is a word?!) Maybe your fabric is thicker though?

    • Hi rcra, you need to trim and clip in the corners. Cut the point of on the corners on the seam allowance side. Still leave some allowance just not as much.

  11. Thank you! It’s a bit rubbish, mainly because it’s really only used as a prompt to keep me crafty and I’ve no time/aptitude for good photography!! It’s not the glorious craft-porn, link-fest or tutorial source that others’ are. But you have put me in mind for a new post! 😀

  12. Pingback: DIY Ottoman on Wheels | Cathy Graham

  13. Thank you so much for this tutorial it has helped me massively. I am however using velcro rather than a zip so have followed it upto a certain point. However, with out the tutorial I would never have worked out the corners

  14. Thank you for this tutorial. Although I am an experienced sewer doing cushions are my downfall. I found your tutorial too late for my second attempt at cushion covers for my 60s click clack lounge. But I used it for the cushion I have done for a relative’s window seat. Pretty close to perfect. I think I am going to revisit the lounge.

  15. Hi Rach. I cannot thank you enough for these instructions. I wanted some new box cushions for our cane furniture and couldn’t find any to buy that were thick enough, so I decided to have a go myself. I could never have done it without your tutorial. You have explained every detail clearly and I have brilliant box cushions now that were quite easy to make. I did it all in the order that rcra recommended and used a 1cm seam allowance as my material was thick canvas. I had no problem with the corners and no bulkiness to deal with.
    I did wash the fabric first to preshrink it. I loved your humorous remarks, but it all went so well, I didn’t need the jaffa cake, except to celebrate when I’d finished. I’m thinking about revamping the lounge sofas now! The hardest part is choosing the fabric.
    Thanks a million, million times.

  16. I am excited to make new seats for my camper. I am struggling to find a place that sells the foam. Do you have any suggestions or ideas where I can get some? This is a great blog and can’t wait to use your suggestions to make mine 🙂

  17. Hi Rach,

    What brilliant easy to follow instructions. We are on Saltspring Island British Columbia and have our dream sailboat we are planning on using lots this summer in semi retirement – up and down the west coast. I had the cockpit seat cushions made by a marine upholsterer and they look great but went into Victoria today and bought lovely blue and white outdoor ticking fabric and foam for the back cushions. Although I have experience sewing the corners terrify me. Your instructions make so much sense and give me confidence. Will keep you posted.


    • Hi Gill,

      Thanks so much for your lovely comment. Your boat sounds amazing, what a great summer you have planned. Best of luck with the cushions, the fabric sounds really nice!

      Let us know how you go 🙂

  18. Hi Rach, thanks so much for your brilliant tutorial, I combed the internet for a nice simple method for box cushion covers without piping, yours gets the bug thumbs up from me. Today I made three cute box foam cushions for my daughters little chairs (she’s always complaining about a sore butt). Winner. My corners turned out really well using your method.

  19. omg thank you for sharing! super easy! I just made four cushion covers in no time based on your tutorial. the other ones I read had me totally confused!

  20. Great tuition on difficult project! I know just how difficult, sooooo deeeelighted to find your blog/instructions….Many, many thanks…Had tried a few different ideas on how to achieve neat corners…with no success as above comment – some of these tuts very confusing…

    I reckon you could have TWO Jaffa cakes with your next cuppa tea! lol…BIG HUGS Denise (UK) x

  21. Thank you for supplying these simple, clear, no jargon instructions. I had never made anything thing before with or without a sewing machine and I don’t think I would have even had a go if I hadn’t found your instructions.

    We have recently finished renovating a 1967 vintage airstream so there were quite a few cushions with curves so it was quite a challenge.

    Here’s a link to the finished result:!247&authkey=!AGJ1yr52JheNMn4&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg

    Some of the earlier zips are a bit wonky but no one can see them!


    • Hi Jane, wow I love it! You’ve done such a great job, especially with curvy cushions, what a nightmare! I hope you have many lovely adventures in it 🙂

  22. I read your tutorial a couple of weeks ago and had a trial run with some lining material and a cushion from my (badly in need of reburishing) conservatory suite with it’s recycled zip. Now brimming with confidence…….I have bought the materials for covering the cushions for our campervan conversion. Thanks for your very clear instructions, wish me luck.

  23. thank you so much for such a great, clearly written and photographed project. My first attempt following your guide was my best cushion ever. I’m about to go for #2 – my only question is why the fabric layout shows the left & right side pieces being 54 cm long, when the sides of the top and bottom, to which they will be sewn, are only 49 cm. From your photos it looks as though they match up perfectly, with no overhang, so for my first cushion, that’s what I did.

    • Hi Abby, so sorry for my late response. Thanks for your comment, I think someone else has asked this question before and unfortunately, I honestly can’t remember. I’m pretty sure it was a deliberate decision, but it was a few years ago now and I just can’t recall. If your first cushion worked I would definitely follow your instincts and do the same again! Cheers, Rachel

  24. Pingback: Au revoir, madame campervan | The Campervan Converts

  25. Thank you so much for taking the time to write out these instructions. I was trying the continuous band option and after ripping it out two times, it was just satisfactory. This turned out so much better. I had to ponder it a bit, but all of a sudden it all made sense. You did a good job writing directions for a seemingly complicated process; however, once you get it, it’s definitely easier.

  26. Just wanted to pass on a HUGE thank you for your instructions! I am a complete novice (ie this is my 2nd ever project!) but it worked a treat! I made a dog bed with recycled materials and have one more to go. Just wanted to say thanks… I think I might get addicted to this sewing business… It’s so rewarding when it’s done!

    • That’s brilliant – thanks so much for the feedback. I was a complete novice as well but I agree it’s totally addictive when it works 🙂

  27. G’day, I’m 53 and been sewing, making my own clothes, etc, since I was about 10 but the thought of sewing in a straight line terrified me. I’m doing up a little caravan and I found your instructions which I am about to embark on, I just hope my cushions don’t end up with pockets, a collar and sleeves …. I’m sure I’ll be fine but it’s a whole new direction for me. I’ll send you beforeshe and afters. I’ve taken the week off work to get 9 cushions covered. 😊

    • Hi Lisa, that’s brilliant. I think little pockets could make a very stylish addition to your seat cushions! Good luck – let us know how you get on 🙂

  28. Thanks so much for posting this. I’m making new covers for a friend at work’s RV cushions (no old covers to go by for a pattern) and your tutorial was a great help since I’ve never done this before even though I sew everything else 🙂

  29. Brilliant step by step advice! It was my first time doing anything like this, but because of this helpful website, it turned out perfectly! Thank you 🙂

  30. These tutorials are great! Any tips on making seat cushions for a boat? Have ‘volunteered’ to make some for a friends boat and am struggling with the odd shapes (triangle shapes and sloping sides). Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in anticipation.

    • Oh gosh, poor you! I was very glad my cushions had to be nice even shapes! (Although I did accidentally make some covers with sloping sides early on.) For me it was just a case of a lot of trial and error at every stage, playing around with the fabric and hand-stitching a couple of prototypes. Best of luck!

  31. I just wanted to tell you that you did a fabulous job with not only sewing the seat cushions but also with your tutorial! It takes a lot of time and patience to do that! I taught myself to sew at the age of 12 and wanted to do it so badly that I was never discouraged with my early trials. My hubs and I just became full time RVers with our two large dogs, and I have decided to cover the leather seats to our sofa with terry cloth so that they’re easy to remove and wash and will also protect the leather. I love to sew and projects like this are fun and rewarding! I hope you continue to find projects to sew and share with “newbies!” Again, great job!

  32. A wonderful tutorial on how to make these. Without this my cushion would have been a disaster! Many other tutorials did not include the zip, or just thought that you knew how to sew up the corners etc. but when you have never done it before you need the extra help. Thank you! 😀

  33. A walking foot on your machine helps keep the heavier home decor fabric together and smooth. The walking foot pulls the top layer of fabric at the same rate as the bottom feed dogs on the machine pull the bottom layer through. It made all the difference for me when I began making cushions and curtains!

  34. Thanks heaps for the tutorial… another beginner who’s just finished a pair of squabs for a bench seat, following your helpful instructions.

  35. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this tutorial!!! My husband and I made some lounge chairs that require big cushions and so I was left with the job of making them. I am also a beginner and this made my job so much easier!! I’ve made 8 cushions for the chairs and my niece asked if I could make cushions for her benches, which I also made. In other words, I’m a cushion making fool!! Haha! Thank you 🙂

  36. Hey Rach, How long does it take you to sew 1 cushion from start to completion. I am thinking of undertaking a project of 8 and want to try to estimate. Thanks!

    • Hi Carolina – I wouldn’t follow my timings I’m afraid; I was a total beginner when I started so I think it took about two months to do the first cushion haha. I did get much quicker though thankfully 🙂

  37. I just created my own cover from your ideas! It was a fitted cover for a church pew. Your help was greatly appreciated in getting the dimensions and sizing better. Many thanks for your awesome post

  38. Thank you so much for this post, I found it so easy to follow and it created exactly what I needed. I was asked by a friend to cover her caravan seats that hadn’t been covered for 30 years. I didn’t know where to start and after searching through he Internet for an hour I came across your post. Thank goodness! The cushions have now gone from old and fusty to new and smart looking.
    Kate X

  39. Hello from Cape Town, South Africa. I too am staring this crazy project as a beginner, with piping on top of it.(not really knowing what I am letting myself in for). I am at the stage to sew the panels to the main piece. I am glad that I have found your site on the web, as I am at a loss as how to sew the corners. Tonight, after work I shall attempt your easier , 3 point meet and sew 2 pieces.
    Wish me luck – if this project succeeds I have a day bed mattress to attempt next! cheers Michele

      • Well, all went super fine, except one of my corners,puckered a bit. But all in all, I am really chuffed at my first attempt. Now to do the seating cushion and my girls cushions shall be finished sooner Han I thought. Thank you for your clear visual instructions. Even after many u tube tutorials, didn’t help me. Many hugs ,and relief smiles of accomlishment.Michele

  40. You are an absolute genius!! I nominate you for President, or Queen or Prime Minister. I too have struggled for weeks making cushion covers for our new little travel trailer. I ruined so much fabric it is embarrassing. Especially since I have seen for about 57 years! I have a deadline in one week to get them and the valances done. Then I found your blog!!!! Happy Day!!!! I am almost finished with my third of four cushion covers today. These bottom cushions are faux breathable leather with a thick fuzzy backing. Between your corner instructions and the nice lady on the phone who told me how to set up my machine to sew the fake leather, I think I won’t have to commit suicide after all! But what to do with all of the expensive material scraps of indoor/ outdoor fabric and faux leather? Grt it out is sight!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

  41. Just finished mine, so proud :-). My first work with my new sewing machine and first zip. Thanks for all your advices, it was really easy to follow.

  42. Thank you a thousand times over…thank you! My friend and her husband bought a scamp… A little mini camp thing… And decided to make all new cushions without a pattern…i was recruited to help…the the corners were killing us!!!!!!! You literally took us from banging our heads against the wall frustration to doing a dance of celebration over the beauty of the perfect corners! We so appreciate you putting up this helpful information… your way is far far far better than the others. Happy summer!

  43. I am your forever fan. With the help of a most gracious, glorious friend who found your blog, and did the lions share of the sewing my scamp is now beautifully cushioned!!! Thank you for helping navigate a tough sew!

  44. Thank you very much for the wonderful instructions. I worked with them 2 years ago and everything went well. I am soooo happy to find them still online because I have to make some new covers because I am redecorating and am changing the fabric. Thank you again, Lenka

  45. Your instructions for the corners was spot on. And genius I might add. I’ve tried many ways over the years but yours is the simplest and most efficient. BUT you didn’t explain how you did the top corners say if you sewed in the bottom. I may be slow but following your directions I’ve already sewn in my entire corner so how do I make this same theory work for me? Thanks for your time.

    • Hi Lisa, thanks so much for your comment. I wrote these instructions quite a few years back now so will have to revisit them and see if I can work it out. Give me a few days and I will try and come back to you!

  46. Hi Rach, I never sewed before and will try the first time now. Reading your instructions i found it easy to follow. I just have one question. Do you sew exact at the 2 cm mark two pieces together or less?

    Waiting to hear from you.

  47. I have just made one from another tutorial and the corners also had me stumped! I will try this method on the next one thank you makes much more sense!

  48. Thank you so much for taking the time to put this fabulous tutorial on the net. I made covers for my caravan this weekend and they came out perfect, you are a legend !

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  51. Had to leave a comment to say thanks for taking the time to post these instructions, easy to follow and you can’t go wrong, well you can but you just unpick it and go again, once I got the hang of leaving the 2cm at each end, it all fell into place with the corners,ours look fab and I’ve enjoyed making them. I did leave 2cm seam allowance for the zip, worked better for me. Thanks again.

  52. Hi Rach, you did a great job. Really clear instructions. Loved the tips on corners.

    One tip for your new machine – if your stitches were uneven on the bottom as you said, then you need to adjust the tension on your machine. There are two places on the machine to do it. They should explain in your manual.

    Any different thread or material, then you just run a small test piece and readjust if needed.

  53. Thanks so much for this article! I’m not good with my sewing machine but your article laid things out well and I was able to recover 4 cushions for a small camper. I modified to close the end with velcro as opposed to a zipper, and I probably still need to “perfect” that, but I think it worked out for this project. Thanks again for the helpful instructions!

  54. Thank you for this. I am about to start making a box cushion and my instinct was to do it in 6 sections. But, as you said, every tutorial says to do it with one long strip for the sides. And that’s so much fabric and I can’t imagine I’ll have much luck with the corners either!

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